Traverse Kyushu from North to South

The article was written on assignment for WAttention.

Day 1 Mojiko~Kumamoto
Retro and romantic

Arriving at Fukuoka Airport, you will be amazed by its vicinity to the city centre. A 6-minute metro ride got me to Hakata Station, and an hour later, I found myself standing on the antique platform of Mojiko Station, the northern tip of Kyushu’s railway network. The port city was prominent as an international trade hub until the early 20th century. Buildings were constructed one after another with the highest aesthetic standard at that time and many of them were preserved to form the modern Mojiko, a retro and romantic scenic town.

Take a leisure stroll along the streets and imagine you were one of the esteemed patrons visiting Mojiko a century ago. Built in 1921, the Old Moji Mitsui Club once welcomed Albert Einstein and his wife. Now it’s a small museum and restaurant serving Mojiko’s signature grilled curry to any guest.

Apart from the many antique western style buildings around town, there is an exquisitely designed railway museum that deserves a visit even if you’re not a big fan of trains.

Kyushu Railway History Museum houses a fine collection of vintage trains.

After exploring Mojiko, I headed back to Hakata and transferred onto an 800 series Shinkansen for Kumamoto. Though the 40-minute journey was too short to admire the astonishingly fast and beautiful bullet train, it left me plenty of time to discover the night life in Kumamoto.

Take a chance and try something new. Basashi, or raw horse meat, is a Kumamoto specialty that will excite one’s curiosity.

Day 2 Kumamoto~Kagoshima
The art of slow travel

The plan for today was to take a series of slow (relative to Shinakansen I mean) yet charismatic trains all the way down to Kagoshima. But before that I had to witness the strong presence of Kumamoto Castle, which is the symbol of Kumamoto and has stood firmly after a major earthquake struck the city in April 2016. Though the castle won’t be open to the public any time soon, you can get a close-up view from Kato Shrine or a bird’s eye view from the free observatory of Kumamoto City Office.

Leaving from Kumamoto, I first made a stop at Hitoyoshi for its National Treasure – Aoi Aso Shrine. The thatch-roofed building was one of a kind, and the delicate engravings were more than beautiful.

And then from Hitoyoshi to Kagoshima, it was show time for JR Kyushu’s sightseeing trains – Isaburo & Hayato no Kaze.

The gracefully designed trains spiral and zig-zag through the mountains as if you’re traveling on one of those Swiss mountain railways. It slows down at scenic viewing spots and makes extended stay at small stations that each has its own characteristics.

Already in his seventies, Mr. Shoubu still sells bento in a traditional hand-carried manner at Hitoyoshi Station. Grab a Kurimeshi bento (chestnut rice lunch) and help Mr. Shoubu unload his burden.

A long journey if measured by traveling time, but definitely a worthy one measured by memorable experiences.

Watching the majestic scenery unfolds from over-sized windows of the limited express Isaburo.

Of course, if you prefer to see more of the city of Kumamoto and Kagoshima, the Shinkansen bullet train will do its work in about 50 minutes and leave you plenty of time to weave your own tale of two cities. The night in Kagoshima was saved for its Kurobuta pork. A cup of Kagoshima Shochu to go with it? You bet.

Day 3 Kagoshima~Nishi-Oyama
Journey to the south

For most people visiting Kagoshima, most likely they will stay near the city and visit historical sites such as Senganen Garden and Ijinkan Residence. But since I am already in southern Kyushu, I determined to go further southward. On the first leg of my journey I traveled from Kagoshima to Ibusuki on the limited express Ibusuki no Tamatebako.

Ibusuki no Tamatebako is furnished with teak wood and exudes a warm ambiance.

Riding on the specially designed sightseeing train was an enjoyment by itself, and the majestic view of Sakurajima volcano from the window made the trip even nicer.

Double the fun by stamping the commemorative postcard and tasting the black sesame pudding on the limited express Ibusuki no Tamatebako.

Before long, I arrived at Ibusuki and then took a short walk to Saraku Sand Bath Hall to try the famous sand bath. Buried in geothermal-heated sand, you will soon feel the heat and start to sweat. The recommended time to stay in the sand is 10 to 15 minutes.

After getting recharged in this unconventional onsen bath, I continued my journey southward to Nishi-Oyama, the southernmost train station in Japan that is operated by JR. There is a yellow mailbox next to the platform.

It is said that postcards and letters delivered from this mailbox to your important ones will bring them happiness. I believe that being able to travel is a blessing, so why not share it forward?

JR Kyushu Pass
Unlimited rail travel across Kyushu!

JR Kyushu Pass is a convenient and money saving railway pass that gets you unlimited train rides within the JR Kyushu railway network. Be it a Shinkansen bullet train, a limited express train, a local train, or even a sightseeing train, JR Kyushu Pass has got it all covered!

There is an exclusive rail pass counter in Hakata Station to serve foreign tourists.

Where to buy?
Main railway stations in Kyushu, including Hakata Station. For details, check out the website of JR Kyushu here.

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This article was published on WAttention Singapore Vol.37.
Special thanks: WAttention